Frequently Asked Questions - Installers

General

Q: Where can I purchase Hunter products?

A: Hunter makes both our products and our replacement parts available through our network of authorized distributors throughout the world.

Use our Distributor Locator to find a Hunter distributor in your area.

Controllers

Q: Where can I get extra Hunter controller owner’s manuals for my customers?

A: You may order copies of owner’s manuals for Hunter controllers from your locally authorized Hunter distributor. You may also purchase owner’s manuals for most Hunter controllers in our On-Line Store.

Owner's manuals are also available on the web site through our Controllers Support Documents page as either web pages or as downladable PDF files.

Q: What is needed for a complete Watering Program?

A: A complete watering Program consists of the following:

1. Watering Start Time(s)
2. Station Run Time(s)
3. Water Days

On an active Water Day the controller will look for a Watering Start Time to start the cycle, then the controller will look for the station(s) with Station Run Times. Then the controller will run the stations in order, from the lowest numbered to the highest, one at a time until all stations in the program have watered.

Each Program requires only one start time to initiate a watering sequence of all the stations assigned to that program. Multiple start times may be used to facilitate more efficient watering if local conditions dictate.

Q: What is the maximum distance I can run wire between the controller and the valves?

A: The answer really depends on the static water pressure of the irrigation system and the wire gauge you are using. Hunter Industries has provided a Valve Wire Sizing Chart to assist you with the correct wire size for your application.

Q: Is there a list of error codes for Hunter controllers?

A: Here is a list of the error codes and ways to troubleshoot them:

Q: Why is the controller not starting the watering cycle?

A: There are a number of reasons that the sprinklers may not come on. Below is a logical method of waling through the possible causes to isolate the problem:

1. Check the Programming:
   • Is there a watering Start Time programmed into the controller?
   • Is the Watering Start Time programmed with correct time of day (i.e. AM or PM)?
   • Is today a Water Day? (i.e. Controller may be set for Even Days and today is the 21st)
   • Are there Station Run Times programmed into the controller?
2. Is there a rain sensor wired into the controller?
   • Look at the “Sensor” terminals on the controller. If there are wires connected to the “Sensor” terminal screws, there is a sensor on the irrigation system.
     By sliding the Rain Sensor switch to the “Bypass” position you can over-ride the active sensor.
   • Look at the controller display, if the “Sensor OFF” icon is displayed, the sensor is activated and inhibiting the watering cycles.
     By sliding the Rain Sensor switch to the “Bypass” position you can over-ride the active sensor.
3. Is the main irrigation water supply open?
   • Go to one of the irrigation valves and twist the solenoid 1/4 to 1/2 a turn counter-clockwise.
     If the valve opens and sprinklers turn on, your valve is working and you’ll need to check the controller and field wiring.
     If the valve did not turn on any of the sprinklers, the water to the valves is still off. Find the irrigation isolation valve and open it.
4. Is the controller station output 24VAC-28VAC?
   • Manually activate all the stations one at a time. Using your voltmeter, check the voltage at each station terminal screw when that station is active. If there is voltage in the range of 24VAC to 28VAC on the station terminals, the controller is working correctly.
     If not, the controller or station module needs to be replaced.
5. Is there voltage on the station wires at the valve?
   • Manually activate all the stations one at a time. Using your voltmeter, check the voltage on each wire at the valve location when that station is active. If there is voltage in the range of 24VAC to 28VAC on the station wires, the wiring is good.
     If not, the wiring needs to be repaired or replaced.
     If there is a minimum voltage of 19VAC on the station wiring at the valve and the valve operates manually, but still doesn’t activate using the controller, the solenoid may need to be replaced.

Q: What should I check if the controller has no display?

A: The first thing to do is to make sure there is power to the controller at the outlet where it is plugged in. Use a test lamp or any other 110VAC device to determine if there is voltage at the outlet.

If there isn’t power there, or if you have a controller that is hard wired, check the circuit breaker at the main breaker box.

If you have power at the outlet, the next thing to check is the transformer output. Use a voltmeter to check the voltage either on the two transformer wires or at the two AC screw terminals on the controller. The transformer should have an output in the range of 24VAC to 28VAC.

If the wall outlet has 110VAC and the transformer has no voltage output, you need to replace the transformer.

If you have voltage at both the wall outlet and the transformer output and you still have a blank display, try cycling the power on the controller. To cycle the power on the controller:

1. Remove the 9-volt battery.
2. Remove power by unplugging the transformer from the wall outlet or by turning off the circuit at the breaker box.
3. Wait 4-5 minutes.
4. Plug the controller transformer back into the electrical receptacle, or turn the breaker panel switch back on.

If this doesn’t restore the display, the controller will need to be replaced.

Q: What should I check if the controller has a partial display?

A: A controller with a partial display usually has a problem with an electronic component on the board and normally cannot be repaired.

Q: There is a rain sensor installed on my customer’s system, but it doesn’t interrupt the irrigation cycle. What should I check?

A: There are three possible reasons:

1. The most common reason is because the sensor has NOT gotten enough rain to activate. Go out to the rain sensor and manually activate the switch. Do you hear it click? Did the sprinklers stop? If so, the rainfall on the sensor hasn’t reached the activation setting. (If you know that your rainfall has exceeded your rain sensor activation setting, you may want to consider moving the sensor to a different location.)
2. The rain sensor switch is in the “BYPASS” or “OFF” position. To fix this, slide the switch into the “ACTIVE” position.
3. During installation of the rain sensor, the terminal jumper was NOT removed. To fix this, remove the terminal jumper located on the sensor terminal screws.

Q: Is there a minimum distance the pump start relay must be from the irrigation controller?

A: While most of the time the distance between the controller and pump start relay doesn't create any problems, every once in awhile the wires on the 24V coil can allow electromagnetic noise to travel back to the controller. This noise is made when the contacts on the pump start relay make and break the connection. Use a minimum distance of 15 feet of separation between the controller and the relay, to help dampen any electromagnetic noise.

Q: What type of solenoid should I use with Hunter’s battery-operated controllers?

A: A battery-operated controller sends a quick DC pulse to operate the solenoid, therefore the battery-operated controller requires a DC latching solenoid to operate correctly. Also, the DC latching solenoid will have one black wire for the common wire and one red wire for the station wire. It is important that the wires are connected correctly for proper operation.

Q: Can I use Hunter’s battery-operated controllers with other manufacturer’s valves?

A: We would prefer that you use a Hunter valve with a DC latching solenoid, but we realize that sometimes you may be retrofitting existing systems that have another manufacturer’s valves. We have done testing on the following solenoids and have found these to operate with the Hunter battery-operated controllers, (some of these DC latching solenoids required a reduced system pressure, below 150 PSI, to ensure proper operation):

Baccara G75-0-10002
Bermad S392-2
Nelson® 8090
Rain Bird® TBOSPSOL

Q: When installing Hunter’s battery-operated controllers how many feet away can the valve be from the controller?

A: The Hunter battery-operated controllers can activate any Hunter DC latching solenoid up to 100’ away when using 18 awg wire.

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Rotors

Q: What tips can you give me to pass on to my service people concerning a rotary sprinkler that does not rotate?

A: Hunter rotary sprinklers operate on a “gear drive” system. When in operation, water turns a small turbine in the base of the sprinkler, which drives a series of gears that cause the head to rotate. The Hunter gear drive mechanism is sealed from dirt and debris; however, even our sprinklers will get the occasional particle of contamination within.

If the sprinkler is no longer rotating and the water flow coming out of the sprinkler has decreased, you can first try cleaning out the filter by removing the pop-up assembly from the main body. The cap can simply be threaded off and the internal assembly removed. The filter on the bottom of the internal assembly can be easily removed using needle nose pliers.

Generally, if cleaning the filter does not solve non-rotation then the internal sprinkler assembly must be replaced.

Q: What tips can you give me to pass on to my employees concerning rotary sprinklers not popping up?

A: Loss of zone water pressure is the reason for rotors not to pop up.

1. Problem: Broken zone piping will cause loss of pressure. Look for new trees and shrub plantings, new or repaired fences–these are a common cause for broken pipes.
   Solution: Repair the broken pipe.
2. Problem: Excessive flow-by on the rotors will cause loss of pressure. Flow-by is the water that flushes out when the rotor first starts to pop up. Hunter rotors are designed to have zero flow-by.
   Solution: Replace the riser seal and spring seat on any older rotors that may have worn seals.

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Valves

Q: What do I need to check when a closed valve continuously leaks water?

A: Here are two reasons why when the valve is shut off it could continue to leak water:

1. The most common reason is called “low head drainage” this is when the lowest head on the zone drains the water from the lateral piping out through the sprinkler. This is actually not a leaking valve, but the effect of gravity on the water in the piping system. If you are experiencing low head drainage, it will stop after all the water has drained out of the pipes. A solution would be to install check valves, such as the HCV, in the sprinklers.
2. If water is leaking through the valve, there is most likely debris in the valve that will not allow it fully close. To fix this, you’ll need to disassemble the valve, rinse all the parts with clean water and re-assemble the valve. (A check valve in the sprinkler will not fix this type of leak.)

Q: Why do some valves close so slowly?

A: Most irrigation valves are designed to close within 10 to 20 seconds of the solenoid deactivating. The most common reason why a valve would close slower is that there is a restriction in the valve metering port(s). Hunter valves incorporate the metering ports in the diaphragm assembly. In the plastic center of the diaphragm assembly, there are small holes that meter (restrict) the amount of water that can flow to the top of the valve. If debris clogs these holes, the flow is restricted too much and the valve can either close real slow or stay open indefinitely. To fix this, simply replace the diaphragm assembly.

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Sprays

Q: Why does the pop-up spray weep/leak water when the water is off?

A: There are two reasons why a pop-up spray will leak water when the water is off. The most common reason is called “Low Head Drainage” this is when the lowest head on the zone drains the water from the lateral piping out of the sprinkler. If it is low head drainage, the drainage will stop after all the water has left the pipe.

The solution is to install check valves, such as the HCV, on the sprinklers. Most Hunter sprinklers are able to have check valves added in the field after they are installed.

The other reason may be water leaking through the valve (a check valve in the sprinkler will not fix this leak). The most common reason why water leaks through a valve is because there is debris in the valve.

The solution is to disassemble the valve, rinse all the parts with clean water and re-assemble the valve. You may need to replace the diaphragm assembly if there is visible damage from the debris.

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Sensors

Q: How do I connect a rain sensor to a Hunter controller?

A: On Hunter controllers you’ll see separate screws on the terminal strip designated for sensor connection. The designation should be either “SEN” or “RS”. This rain sensor circuit requires a normally closed type switch to operate correctly.

To install a Mini-Clik®, Rain-Clik™, Freeze-Clik™, Wind-Clik™ or the Mini-Weather Station sensors to a controller, simply remove the jumper that is connected to the sensor terminals. Then, attach one of the sensor wires to either of the sensor terminals on the controller. Attach the other sensor wire to the other sensor terminal on the controller.

To install a Wireless Rain-Clik™ sensor to the controller, simply remove the jumper that is connected to the sensor terminals. Then, attach the BLUE sensor wire to either of the sensor terminals on the controller. Attach the WHITE sensor wire to the other sensor terminal on the controller. The two YELLOW sensor wires are for the 24VAC power. Attach one of these YELLOW sensor wires to either of the controller terminals marked “AC” and attach the other YELLOW sensor wire to the other controller terminal marked “AC”. (You will not use the ORANGE wire)

To install a Flow-Clik sensor on the controller, simply remove the jumper that is connected to the sensor terminals. There are six wires on the Flow-Clik interface box. Attach one of the WHITE sensor wires to either of the sensor terminals on the controller. Attach the other WHITE sensor wire to the other sensor terminal on the controller. The two YELLOW sensor wires are for the 24VAC power. Attach one of these YELLOW sensor wires to either of the controller terminals marked “AC” and attach the other YELLOW sensor wire to the other controller terminal marked “AC”. The RED and BLACK sensor wires are connected to the Flow-Clik sensor’s RED and BLACK wires.

To install a Hunter sensor to another manufacturer’s controller that does not have the sensor terminals, simply remove the wire(s) from the “COM” terminal screw. Attach one of the sensor leads to that “COM” terminal screw and attach the other sensor lead to the wire(s) that you removed from the “COM” terminal screw.

Q: How long does it take for the rain sensor to dry out?

A: All Hunter rain sensors have an adjustable “Vent Ring”. The drying out time could be as little as 4 hours depending on the weather conditions (temperature and humidity) and how the vent ring is set. If the weather conditions remain cold and damp, your sensor could be active for months.

Q: Why is the rain sensor not turning off the sprinklers?

A: There are three possible reasons:

1. The most common reason is because the sensor has NOT received enough rain to activate. Go out to the rain sensor and manually activate the switch. Do you hear it click? Did the sprinklers stop? If so, the rainfall on the sensor hasn’t reached the activation setting. (If you know that your rainfall has exceeded your rain sensor activation setting, you may want to consider moving the sensor to a different location.)
2. The rain sensor switch is in the “BYPASS” or “OFF” position. To fix this, slide the switch into the “ACTIVE” position.
3. During installation of the rain sensor, the terminal jumper was NOT removed. To fix this, remove the terminal jumper located on the sensor terminal screws.

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Winterization

Q: What procedure do you recommend for winterizing Hunter sprinkler systems?

A: There are varying methods used by contractors in cold weather climates. We checked with several regions as to their winterization practices, and came up with a document that outlines a comprehensive method for completing this necessary task called: Winterizing Your Irrigation System.

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