Wind-Clik™ Installation Instructions
In most installations, the Wind-Clik acts as a switch to break the circuit to the solenoid valves of the irrigation system during high wind conditions. This allows the timer to advance as scheduled, but keeps the valves from opening the water flow. Once the wind conditions drop below the reset point, the switch closes again to allow for normal operation. This is performed by the wind action of the vanes. They rotate about 180°, and DO NOT SPIN. There are arrow indicators on the top part of the housing that indicate the direction of rotation from rest. The switching action occurs about midway in the range of rotation.
The housing of the Wind-Clik is designed to slip over the end of 2" PVC pipe. The length and the fixing of the pipe is then up to the user depending on the situation. For example, the pipe could be inserted directly into the ground as a post, or a short length could be screwed into a wooden deck post.
Wind obstructions should be avoided, of course; however, when buildings are nearby, the Wind-Clik should be located so that the prevailing wind direction is not obstructed. Going up high is not always necessary; however, it is a good way to avoid obstructions. Wind speeds often vary according to ground height, and for irrigation system control the wind speed about 6 feet above ground would be a good representative height for the Wind-Clik placement.
The Wind-Clik connects directly to the SRC. This allows you to easily override the sensor by using the RUN (BYPASS SENSOR) position on the dial.
Note: On Hunter controller the Green and Red wires should be used.
Pro-C, XC, EC, ICC and I-Core
The Wind-Clik connects directly to the Pro-C or ICC. This allows you to easily over-ride the sensor by using the Sensor switch on the front panel.
Additional Wiring Procedures (non-Hunter controllers)
For sprinkler systems, use the common and normally closed wire to break the solenoid common circuit (See Figure 3).
For a controller with sensor inputs, use either the N.C. or N.O. wire depending on the controller's instructions (See Figure 4).
Note: Normally Closed controllers would utilize the Green and Red wires, the Blue wire would be used for Normally Open controllers.
If the installation includes multiple sensors, the sensors will need to be wired in circuit (See FIgure 5).
The large knob is the switching (actuation) speed in mph. For example, if the unit is wired “normally closed,” the dial will indicate the wind speed that the unit will switch open. The small knob is the reset speed. This is the wind speed that the wind will have to slow down to in order to reset the switch (closed, in this example). The reset speed should always be set lower than the switching speed. If the reset speed is set the same or higher than switch-ing speed, extreme switch chatter could occur (on-off-on-off etc). The difference between the two settings will largely determine the cycling of the system being controlled. The larger the difference, the longer the cycle. Do not try to move the dial knobs counter-clockwise past the lowest speed setting, nor go past the highest speed setting.
There is built in damping in the unit to alleviate the problem of short gusts of wind. Therefore, the wind speed settings, while accurate under controlled conditions, are actually relative averages when set up in the field. The user should make initial wind speed settings and then observe to make sure the Wind-Clik is switching as desired. Incremental adjustments can then be made. Manual operation or testing of the unit can be done by manually rotating the vanes in the direction of the arrows. Switching will occur about 90° from the rest position and stay switched to the end of its travel range (180° from rest). Allowing the vanes to rotate backwards to the rest position will deactivate the switch (about 45° from the rest position).